The best walks on and around Ben Nevis – by Keri Wallace

At 1345m, Ben Nevis (Beinn Nibheis) is the highest mountain in Britain and as such, it’s a natural objective for people all over the world. More than 130,000 people reach the summit each year, with around the same number again making it only part way up. By comparison, relatively few people visit the hills and trails of the surrounding area – and they are seriously missing out! There are lots of ways to enjoy this great mountain without joining the throng on the Mountain Track.

The magnificent Steall Falls above the Water of Nevis. © Keri Wallace

Best short walk – Steall Falls

At less than 5km, this is a short walk that packs a huge punch in terms of the views on offer. The trail may be rocky in places, with several small burns to cross along the way but the views back down Glen Nevis and below into the deep gorge are something special. Surprisingly these vistas are not the jewel in the crown. At the head of the glen the gorge opens into a wide meadow and the majestic Steall Falls suddenly becomes visible ahead. Take some time here to enjoy this popular Harry Potter film location and the quirky Steall Bridge before heading back the way you came.    

The dramatic North Face of Ben Nevis is especially breathtaking in winter.
© Keri Wallace

Best views – North Face of Ben Nevis

This route is a walk on the wild side of Ben Nevis. A beautiful trail that climbs steeply through the forest but eases as it joins the line of the Alt a'Mhuilinn river, flowing from high-up near the North Face of Ben Nevis. Follow the water to its source, along a quiet trail that becomes rougher as you climb, until you notice the Charles Ingles Clark (CIC) Memorial Hut nestled among rocky outcrops. This alpine-style mountain hut, dating back to 1928/9, sits in a convenient and spectacular location below the dramatic ridges of the North Face, popular with climbers and mountaineers since the origins of the sport. This remarkable view is one of the best in the UK and well worth the effort to get there.

Use the popular Mountain Track to access the slopes of Meall an t-Suidhe. © Keri Wallace

Best in less favourable weather – Meall an t-Shuidhe 

When the winds are high or the trail is icy, a great bail-out option is to climb the minor summit of Meall an t-Shuidhe instead of the Ben itself. From approximately half-way up the Mountain Track, this walk leaves the crowds behind and strikes-off up grassy slopes. The climb is steep and pathless but short-lived, and the broad ridge offers fabulous views to the west. The two tops on the ridge are rarely visited and give a proper summit feel – a little piece of Ben Nevis all to yourself.

Ben Nevis is an impressive backdrop from the trails of nearby Cow Hill. © Virginia Bird

Best dog walk – Cow Hill

Only Fort William, at the foot of the UK’s highest mountain, could have a mini-mountain in the middle of town! At just 287m it’s not much of a climb but a loop of the hill provides views over the town and to Ben Nevis itself. The circular route is popular with dog-walkers and visits several viewpoints, including the very top. Nip round to the West of the mast for the best views over Loch Linnhe and the Ardgour Peninsula. Finish with an undulating descent through forestry on a carpet of pine-needles to rejoin the outward trail and close the loop.

The River Lundy trail is an accessible loop within Leanachan Forest. © Keri Wallace

Most accessible walk – River Lundy Trail Nevis Range

An accessible alternative to the full Ben Nevis experience is a leisurely stroll through Leananchan Forest from nearby Nevis Range combined with a trip up the mountain Gondola – reaching 650m in just fifteen minutes! Leanachan is home to miles of long, interconnected forestry trails but this route is a short loop which starts and finishes at the main car park, with all amenities close at hand. Suitable for children, dogs and off-road buggies, this walk will be a winner for all the family.

Climbing to the vitrified fort gives great mountain views up Glen Nevis to the Mamores. © Keri Wallace

Best forest walk – Dùn Deardail the Vitrified Fort

Forest walks can sometimes feel a wee bit ‘samey’ but they are not all made equal. This route begins by showcasing a short section of Scotland’s oldest long-distance trail, the West Highland Way. But you’ll need to resist turn-offs to other points of interest, such as the Wishing Stone or Lower Falls and stick with the climb, if you are going to get to the reward on this one! As height is gained, the forestry track makes sweeping hairpins with improving views over Ben Nevis and neighbouring Munro Sgurr a’Mhaim. This may be an out-n-back walk but the prize at the top is worth persevering for – a spectacular iron-age fort dating back to 500BC, now a hilltop promontory ideal for picnicking!

Beautiful woodland and views into the River Spean gorge make this a memorable route for the whole family. © Keri Wallace

Best for historical points of interest – Commando Memorial Trail

If you’re a history buff then you’ll be sure to enjoy the many points of interest on the Commando Memorial Trail a mile outside Spean Bridge village. An easy circular walk, starting and finishing at the Commando Memorial viewpoint, a sculpture which was unveiled in 1952 to commemorate the service of Allied troops during the Second World War. This route follows the line of a dismantled railway (part of the former Spean Bridge to Fort Augustus line, last used in 1947) to a viewing platform next to the ruins of the historic High Bridge. This impressive piece of architecture was built to carry General Wade’s Road over the River Spean in 1736 and saw battle during the Jacobite uprising. The final leg of this route is on roadside pavement but don’t worry, you can visit a café and grab a coffee before tackling the climb back to the monument!

The distinctive whale-backed shape of Ben Nevis is easily recognisable. © Keri Wallace

Easiest route to the summit – Ben Nevis by the Mountain Track

The Mountain Track is the most popular hillwalking route up Ben Nevis. Although it's a gentle climb up a wide, zig-zagging path, it’s important never to underestimate this particular mountain, which sees more than its fair share of inclement weather! It’s surprisingly easy to lose the track on its stony flank or featureless plateau, despite its scale!

Around half-way up there is a shoulder and a pretty lochan, which makes for a natural resting point. Above this however, the trail is rougher underfoot and more indistinct in places. Once the summit plateau is reached there are cairns showing the way but it’s always best to carry a map and compass just in case (and know how to use them!) The summit is a busy one and at peak times you may even have to queue to touch the trig point!

If you’re lucky enough to reach the summit on a clear day, then not only will you be the highest person in the UK but you will also witness a 360-degree mountain panorama that you’ll never forget.

The CMD Arête is an iconic route on Ben Nevis. © Keri Wallace

Most challenging walk – Ben Nevis via the CMD Arête

Climbing Ben Nevis via the Carn Mor Dearg (CMD) Arête is a classic mountaineering route of unquestionable excellence – but it’s not easy. The climb up Carn Mor Dearg is something of a beast to start the day but gives the benefit of walking towards the North Face of Ben Nevis as you scramble the grade 1 ridgeline between the two Munros. Exposed and challenging throughout, you will need a head for heights if you want to look down into Coire Leis on your right and spot the Charles Ingles Clark (CIC) Memorial Hut tucked-in neatly below. Negotiate the boulder-field of the mountain’s SE shoulder and cross the plateau to find the Observatory ruin, summit shelter and much coveted trig point on the UK’s highest summit. You can enjoy a relaxed descent down the Mountain Track, which will be easy by comparison and finish at the Ben Nevis Inn with a well-earned pint (or two).