The best walks in the South Downs National Park – by Deirdre Huston

When people talk of the South Downs National Park, they mention breathtaking views, a hint of freedom, or the iconic white cliffs of Beachy Head. Others share stories of an exhilarating stretch of the South Downs Way, that feeling of walking in the footsteps of history, or stopping at a vineyard, pub, or café to sample local produce. Or perhaps they value the diverse habitats which offer a haven to wildlife, including some rare, internationally important species. Wherever your interests lie, walking offers a wonderful way to explore this popular national park within easy reach of London.

THE BEST HIKING TRAIL

With 160 kilometres of footpaths and bridleways connecting Winchester to Eastbourne, the South Downs Way offers invigorating ridge walks along endless domed hills with flint and chalk underfoot, the wind in your face, and countless views over lowland fields, heaths and villages. Chalky ancient tracks draw ever upwards towards a blue sky. The climbs may claw at your calf muscles, but there are few steep drops making these hills an accessible and popular leisure destination for a wide range of people.

For thousands of years, humans have found a way to co-exist with the South Downs, and walkers will often come across visible signs of the past, such as the Iron Age Fort at Chanctonbury Ring, marked by an atmospheric cluster of trees that offer the perfect spot to pause and appreciate the views. In addition, those sections of the trail which run along chalk ridges drain well, making The South Downs Way a viable option for periods of rainy weather too.

In Day Walks on the South Downs, a stretch of the South Downs Way is often paired with lesser-known paths to create a varied and interesting walk which explores contrasting landscapes. Good picnic spots and refreshment stops are highlighted too.

Beachy Head Lighthouse

THE BEST COASTAL WALK

Walks along the dramatic chalk cliffs between Eastbourne and Seaford attract local and international visitors. These cliffs form part of the Heritage Coast in an area once renowned for smuggling. The visitor centre at Seven Sisters Country Park is a good starting point, but car parks get busy so consider using public transport or arrive early. Erosion and changes in water levels mean the chalk landscape and tidal oxbow lake appear different on every visit. Coastal light intensifies the feeling of an ever-changing landscape. An accessible path leads from the visitor centre at Exceat to the shingle beach at Cuckmere Haven, but many visitors also venture along the cliffs to take in the staggering coastal views and enjoy this magnificent coastal stretch of the South Downs Way. Birling Gap and the iconic lighthouses of Beachy Head sit at the other end of the Seven Sisters Country Park.

The preceding inland section of the South Downs Way is definitely worth exploring. The downland pubs in this area are deservedly popular, but the chalk paths joining the villages are quiet and peaceful, perhaps because they demand legwork to conquer hills.

A favourite walk of my family is around the flint villages of Littlington and Jevington. Drop into Long Man’s flint barn and cafe to find out more about the downland brewer, then climb up to the National Nature Reserve at Lullington Heath, a colourful patchwork of mixed scrub, chalk grasslands and rare chalk heath. If you’re lucky, you may see blue sky reflected in the glistening dew pond, another classic feature of South Downs Landscape. Descend to Jevington, and hike back up for a tantalising glimpse of turquoise sea from above East Dean. One challenging walk in Day Walks on the South Downs finishes with this undulating coastal stretch, but, if your legs have had enough, a shortcut enables you to slip back through elevated woodland tracks in Friston Forest.

THE BEST FOREST WALK

Friston Forest offers some brilliant days out for all the family.Way marked walking and cycling trails weave through this expansive beech woodland and its steep ghylls. The woodland may be recently established, but the area doesn’t lack history. From Exceat, skip down some steps to the charming hamlet of West Dean, where flint houses cluster near a pond and the church dates back to Saxon times.

THE BEST QUIET WALK

The core forested area of the West Weald has much to offer. One peaceful walk which explores woods of varying character and ancient common includes a section of Sussex Wildlife Trust’s Ebernoe Common Nature Reserve. The high forest and open grassland of Ebernoe are significant habitats with glades, droveways and shallow ponds all playing their part in a rich mosaic of habitats. Once, commoners would have turned out their pigs or cattle to graze the land and, since Sussex Wildlife Trust brought the reserve in 1980, they have reintroduced grazing, and opened up the glades and rides to restore overgrown woodland and protect vital habitats. This walk is well and truly off the beaten track, but that doesn’t stop there being some good pubs nearby, such as the Half Moon Inn at Northchapel or the Stag Inn at Ball Cross.

Saddlescombe Farm

THE BEST CIRCULAR WALK

Access the heart of the South Downs National Park from the station at Hassocks. This thriving village boasts an eclectic high street with independent shops and cafes, and is aptly known as ‘The Gateway to the Downs’ because it offers easy access via public transport from London, and beyond.

An old cinder track runs south alongside the railway to reach the route’s starting point at Clayton Recreation Ground. Look out for red kites swooping over nearby fields; they have moved east in recent years and are now a common sight around here. This circular hike explores National Trust land at Saddlescombe and Newtimber. Newtimber Hill is renowned for its chalk grassland, providing a rich habitat for downland flowers and insects, including rarities like the silver-spotted skipper, burnt orchid and red star thistle.

Saddlescombe Farm was once owned by the Knights Templar and is also famous for its donkey wheel. Victorian writer Maude Robinson wrote ‘A South Downs Farm’ in the 1860s and the National Trust continues to share agricultural history and practice through their open days. I collaborated with The National Trust to help document the stories of ordinary workers such as Stan, the shepherd, Dave, the dairyman and Glynn, the ranger. They have all played their part in making the South Downs National Park the very special place it is today. This circular walk continues past Saddlescombe and The Wildflower Cafe, to climb the legendary gorge at Devil’s Dyke. Drop. Look out for the concrete remains of the Victorian cable car before you return across fields, perhaps visiting the often-forgotten thirteenth-century church at Newtimber.

THE BEST WALK ALONG A DOWNLAND RIDGE

Another satisfying circular walk starts at Southease. The route includes a wonderful, elevated stretch of The South Downs Way before dropping down to The Juggs pub at Kingston, named after the fish baskets which fishermen’s wives carried as they made their way to market at Lewes. The circuit continues along good, quiet agricultural paths to emerge at Rodmell, home to the country retreat of Leonard and Virginia Woolf. She wrote many of her most celebrated novels at Monk’s House, which is now owned by The National Trust. If you hope to pop in, pre-booking is essential. 

Winchester Hill

THE BEST HILLTOP ROUTE

This circular trail starts in the thatched village of East Meon, near the beginning of the South Downs Way. Enjoy a steady climb to Old Winchester Hill, where the unimproved chalk downland supports a number of butterfly species, including the adonis and chalkhill blue. An Iron Age hillfort crowns the summit. Within its walls, don’t miss the early Bronze Age hillfort, believed to have been the settlement of a Celtic chieftain. Four flint and chalk barrow tumuli are preserved along the top of the ridge. Around 3,800 years ago, they would have stood out as brilliant white markers on the skyline. The route descends on Monarch’s way and climbs back up the valley before joining a flat, easy trail through the luscious Meon Valley, past the burial place of the spy, Guy Burgess, and the founder of the cricket ground, Thomas Lord. A final section leads you through broadleaf woodland with a woodpecker beat and some big old trees.

THE BEST RIVER WALK

The town of Arundel is host to many visitors, but few venture beyond its main street, parkland and castle. Follow this easy meandering route within sight of Arundel Castle, and you soon gain a sense of how the thousand-year-old castle stands sentry over the river. Imagine how the castle influenced the lives of ordinary people living in the surrounding area. The route follows the banks of the River Arun, making for some easy walking, and, if you don’t want to think about the past or the future, why not do what walking helps people do best? Be in the moment. Water can be very contemplative, with its hidden depth, glistening ripples, and soothing sounds. Walking is also very meditative, with its repetitive action and natural rhythm, so combining the two is likely to be a restorative option.

All photography © Deirdre Huston